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  1. #1
    Join Date
    06-21-2010
    Location
    Camden, South Carolina
    Posts
    2,650

    returning circular saw

    Hi guys,

    I'm back in the shop and have been missing you. I purchased a circular saw and saw horses to cross cut a 2 1/2" thick Mahogany board that I'll make into 2 X 2" legs for a granite top table. Two cuts and two kickbacks, serious ones. Glad I had the wood clamped and face guard on. Tool climbed up on me, flipped back, and cut the infeed side of the board. Two times and you're out. I'm returning a tool I don't know how to use safely. Ruined the wood and can't cull what I need for this project.

    I should have used a miter saw for the cross cuts, which I don't own and have no room for. Have found a person that can cross-cut the boards for me to workable size based on my equipment and space.

    I may have to re-design the project to accommodate for thinner legs that will still support 25 Lbs. of granite..
    Elizabeth
    I think, therefore I'm more confused than when I began.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    06-21-2010
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Posts
    453

    Re: returning circular saw

    Well, at least it was only wood that was messed up, not you.
    "Be happy in your work"...Colonel Saito
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    06-15-2010
    Location
    Huntington Beach, California
    Posts
    5,024

    Re: returning circular saw

    Elizabeth,
    Try trimming pieces by 2 and then bevel the edges. After you glue up 4 pieces you'll have a leg and all it takes is a bit of trimming to make your 2x2 legs.

    There is only one gotcha but it involves simple math. As a minimum, the dimension of the leg MUST be more than twice the thickness of your stock. If you're using then the dimension of the leg must be about 1 x 1. Once you make one leg you'll see the reason for the rule.

    The rest of you will regret sleeping through high school geometry class.

    BTW - I don't understand why you needed a circular saw as your table saw will cut 3 inches deep very easily. With a good 40 or 50 tooth combination blade even a 1 HP saw will easily cut that thickness. (I did it with my Jet contractor model running on 120 Volts.) Oh, if you're using a Woodworker II blade, you'll have extreme difficulty making deep cuts. The blade is good for not much more than deep cuts. DAMHIKT.
    Last edited by rrich; 07-14-2015 at 5:18 am.
    Rich
    Huntington Beach, California

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    06-21-2010
    Location
    Camden, South Carolina
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    Re: returning circular saw

    Thank Herb. Glad I wasn't injured too.

    Rich: just finished replying and got logged out. My PC is driving me crazy!

    I was hoping to have the legs solid so there would be no glue lines but It may end up that I will need to do as you suggest. But why do I need four 3/4" strips to get to 2" legs? Using three gives me 2 1/4"...

    The wood is rough sawn from the miller and was 7' long. I couldn't crosscut on the TBS because it's not flat and wobbled too much for me to feel safe cutting it. Plus the weight and length contributed to me not wanting to push my luck on the TBS.

    You're right about the Woodworker II. It is burning my hardwoods any thicker than 3/4". I've ordered a 22 tooth ripping blade to use on the thick woods. I'm told, though that the woodworker II will do fine on crosscuts...? Is this correct?

    Thanks!
    Elizabeth
    I think, therefore I'm more confused than when I began.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    06-15-2010
    Location
    Lindale, TX
    Posts
    3,064

    Re: returning circular saw

    Will your hardwood dealer not cut things down for you? They should.
    Mark


    "Merely having an open mind is nothing; the object of opening the mind, as of opening the mouth, is to shut it again on something solid." G.K. Chesterton
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    06-15-2010
    Location
    Huntington Beach, California
    Posts
    5,024

    Re: returning circular saw

    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth View Post
    I was hoping to have the legs solid so there would be no glue lines but It may end up that I will need to do as you suggest. But why do I need four 3/4" strips to get to 2" legs? Using three gives me 2 1/4"...
    Take your 10/4 mahogany slab and slice off a bunch of 7/8" thick pieces. These will be a rough "one by" or 4/4 and 2 wide. Do all your squaring up and flattening of these pieces. As you rip these pieces off, mark a sequential number on the end and toward the top.

    Now you have 4 pieces numbered 1 to 4. Make a 45 bevel cut on each side. Glue the bevels all together giving a square piece. If you do the glue up with the numbers sequentially, the grain will appear to "run around" the leg. The glue line tends to disappear as it is at the corner of the leg. If you use TiteBond III the glue line is virtually invisible to everyone but you. The glue dries a bit dark and blends in very well.

    I've attached a picture of a table leg that is in 4 parts. I alternated top and bottom because I was running low on oak at the time and grain match wasn't important. I picked this leg because it has a glaring example of different grain.


    Click image for larger version

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    I don't remember if your saw is left tilt or right tilt. If you are tilting right, move your fence to the left side of the blade for safety.
    Rich
    Huntington Beach, California

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    06-21-2010
    Location
    Camden, South Carolina
    Posts
    2,650

    Re: returning circular saw

    Thanks Rich! It would have never occurred to me to do it that way. I really like the idea!

    Just lost my reply... Sorry for the tardiness. It's been the "summer from Hell" between my house repairs, my Mom's house repairs and doing all the leg/paperwork in preparation of Neil's retirement, I haven't had a moment to myself. The worst is almost over and I hope to have some peace to return to the shop.

    I've got to run. Be back soon.

    Thanks again.
    Elizabeth
    I think, therefore I'm more confused than when I began.
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